Disc brakes

Hydraulische schijfremset

A disc brake set with hydraulic operation and aluminium alloy parts. The title is cut off, so read the rest on the product page.

What you get

Hydraulic disc brake set
Aluminium alloy
For bikes with disc brakes

Why disc brakes?

A disc brake works on a separate rotor, so the rim stays clean and true. In the rain braking power drops far less than with rim brakes. You can also modulate finely, which makes the difference on a long, steep descent or on gravel.

With hydraulic brakes, fluid in a hose pushes the pads against the rotor. That feels light, needs little hand force and adjusts itself as the pads wear. Mechanical disc brakes use a cable. They are simpler to adjust on the road and cost less, but brake less hard and need adjusting more often.

Hydraulic brakes use mineral oil (for example Shimano) or DOT fluid (for example SRAM and Hope). Never mix them: the wrong fluid damages the seals. A caliper has two or four pistons. Four pistons give more power and control, which helps most on heavy MTB riding and long descents.

Brake pads come in resin (organic) and metal (sintered). Resin is quiet, bites straight away and is kind to the rotor, but wears faster and loses power when hot. Metal lasts longer in wet weather and on long descents, but makes a little more noise.

How the systems compare

Hydraulic and mechanical differ in braking power and upkeep.

System	Power and feel	Upkeep	Watch for
Hydraulic (mineral oil)	Strong and easy to modulate	Bleeding, usually once a year	Never add DOT fluid
Hydraulic (DOT)	Strong, higher boiling point	Bleeding, fluid replaced	Absorbs moisture, DOT harms paint
Mechanical (cable)	Decent, needs more hand force	Adjust cable, replace pads	Needs adjusting more as it stretches
Hydraulic, four pistons	Very strong, good with heat	Bleeding, larger pads	A little heavier, mainly for MTB

Also check whether your frame uses post mount or flat mount, as the caliper has to match.

Choose it if

You are upgrading from mechanical to hydraulic brakes
You are building a bike with disc brakes
You ride often in rain, mud or mountains and want braking power that stays steady.
You already have disc brakes and want better or stronger ones.

Choose something else if

Your bike has rim brakes or no disc mounts, so this set does not fit
Your frame or fork has no disc brake mounts. You cannot simply fit them.
You do not want to bleed brakes yourself and have no tools: have a shop do it.

How to use a disc brake

Fit the caliper
Bolt the caliper loosely to the frame or fork mount, using the right adapter for your rotor size.
Centre the caliper
Squeeze the lever and tighten the bolts while holding it. The caliper then sits exactly over the rotor. Tighten to the stated torque, often around 6 Nm.
Bed in the pads
In a safe place, brake about twenty times from a moderate speed to almost a stop, without stopping completely. A layer then forms on pad and rotor.
Check and maintain
Check the pads still have more than about 1 mm of friction material and the rotor is not rubbing. Bleed hydraulic brakes about once a year.

Good to know

Front or rear and rotor size are not in the title
Fitting and bleeding need tools and experience
Keep oil, grease and aerosols (chain spray included) away from rotor and pads. Contaminated pads must be replaced and squeal.
Replace pads when less than about 1 mm of friction material is left. Riding on the metal backing plate damages the rotor.
Never mix mineral oil and DOT. Check the manual for which fluid your brakes use.
Do not squeeze the lever with the wheel removed. Put a pad spacer in for transport, or the pistons may push out too far.

What you get

Why disc brakes?

How the systems compare

Choose it if

Choose something else if

How to use a disc brake

Fit the caliper

Centre the caliper

Bed in the pads

Check and maintain

Good to know

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