Road saddles

Selle Italia A3 gelzadel

Road saddles

Selle Italia A3 gelzadel

The Selle Italia A3 is a road saddle with gel padding and an anatomic cut-out. It is aimed at comfort on longer rides.

What you get

  • Selle Italia A3
  • Gel padding
  • Anatomic cut-out

Why a road saddle?

On a road bike you lean forward and your pelvis tilts ahead. Your weight then rests mostly on your sit bones and less on the soft tissue between them. If the saddle suits that position, you are still comfortable after four hours. If it is too narrow or too wide, you get pressure, chafing and numbness.

The right width depends on the distance between your sit bones. Measure it by sitting on a piece of cardboard or a thick layer of foam and measuring between the centres of the two dents. You usually add 10 to 25 mm, depending on how far forward you lean. Road saddles come in widths of roughly 130 to 155 mm.

A cut-out or channel in the middle reduces pressure on the soft tissue, especially when you ride low. For some riders it makes a big difference, for others a closed saddle works just as well. As for padding, thick foam feels soft in the shop but can cause more friction after hours. A thin, firm pad usually supports your sit bones better on long rides.

The shell is usually nylon or a composite. The rails are steel (sturdy, a little heavier), titanium or carbon (lighter). A road saddle typically weighs 150 to 300 g. A lighter saddle is not automatically more comfortable, so choose on shape and width first.

How road saddles compare

The shape of the saddle decides who it suits. These are the usual types.

TypeSuitsPaddingWeight
Narrow and flatA low, fast positionThin and firmAbout 150 to 220 g
Medium width, slight curveMost riders, long ridesMediumAbout 180 to 260 g
With cut-out or channelIf you feel pressure leaning forwardMedium, often lowered in the centreAbout 170 to 270 g
Short noseIf you change position oftenMediumAbout 180 to 250 g
Wide with comfort paddingA more upright position, short ridesThickAbout 250 to 350 g

Weights are guides and vary by model.

Choose it if

  • You want a comfortable saddle from a well-known Italian brand
  • You feel pressure on a saddle without a cut-out
  • You ride a road or gravel bike in a sporty, forward-leaning position.
  • You regularly ride more than two hours.

Choose something else if

  • You want a very light racing saddle, as gel padding weighs more than a minimalist model
  • You sit upright on a city or touring bike. A wider comfort saddle suits that better.
  • You ride mostly off-road. An MTB saddle is tougher and has reinforced edges.

How to set up a road saddle

  1. Measure your sit bones

    Sit on cardboard or foam, measure the gap between the dents and add 10 to 25 mm. That is the width to look for.

  2. Fit it level

    Lay a spirit level or a ruler on the saddle and set it flat. Then adjust in small steps.

  3. Set the position on the rails

    Slide the saddle forwards or backwards on the rails. Keep the clamp within the markings on the rails.

  4. Tighten to the right torque

    Preferably use a torque wrench and the value printed on the seatpost or clamp. Carbon rails often need less.

  5. Ride and fine-tune

    Ride for a week before adjusting. Change one thing at a time, for example 2 mm forward or half a degree of tilt.

Good to know

  • Saddle width is not part of the title, so choose by your sit bone width
  • Reset height and tilt after fitting
  • Check whether your seatpost has a clamp for round 7 mm rails or for oval 7 x 9 mm carbon rails. Not every clamp fits both.
  • A new saddle takes a few rides to get used to. Do not judge it after one ride.
  • A crack in the shell or bent rails after a crash mean the saddle needs replacing.
  • Go by the right width, even if the saddle looks too narrow to your eye. Measuring beats looking.
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