Cranksets

Shimano FC-TY301 crankstel 6/7/8-voudig

Cranksets

Shimano FC-TY301 crankstel 6/7/8-voudig

This Shimano FC-TY301 crankset is made for MTB and works with 6, 7 or 8 speeds. It uses a square taper.

What you get

  • Shimano FC-TY301
  • 6/7/8 speeds
  • Square taper, 42/34/24

Why the right crankset?

The number of teeth on your chainring decides how hard or easy your gears are. A standard crankset (for example 53/39) is made for fast, flat riding. A compact (for example 50/34) gives an easier climbing gear and suits most recreational riders better. On gravel you see 46/30 or 48/31, on MTB often a single ring of 30 to 36 teeth.

A single ring (1x) is simpler: no front derailleur, less weight and less chance of the chain dropping. The cost is bigger jumps between gears and a bigger cassette. Two rings (2x) give smaller steps and a wider total range.

When choosing, look at the BCD, the diameter of the circle on which the chainring bolts sit. On the road that is often 110 mm (four bolts, compact and standard) or 130 mm. On MTB 104 mm is common. The BCD decides which chainrings fit, and so how small or large you can go.

A second choice is the spindle. An old square taper spindle sits in many older bikes. Modern cranksets have external bearings with a 24 mm spindle, or 28.99 mm for SRAM DUB. That is stiffer, lighter and easier to maintain, but it only fits the right bottom bracket.

How the setups compare

The chainring combination decides what your bike is good at.

SetupChainringsSuitsDownside
Standard53/39 or 52/36Fast, flat, racingA hard easiest gear
Compact50/34Hilly and recreationalLess top speed on long descents
Gravel 2x46/30, 48/31 or 48/32Gravel and road, wide rangeNeeds a front derailleur
Gravel 1xOne ring of 38 to 44 teethGravel, simple and sturdyBigger jumps, wider cassette
MTB 1xOne ring of 28 to 36 teethOff-road, climbing and descendingOn the road: limited top end

Pair the chainring with a matching cassette or you lose the top or bottom of the range.

Choose it if

  • You are replacing a crankset on an MTB with a square-taper bottom bracket.
  • You want three chainrings for a wide range.
  • Your crankset is worn or cracked, or the teeth have turned hook-shaped.
  • You want easier gears for the mountains or harder ones for fast riding.

Choose something else if

  • With a modern 10 or 11 speed drivetrain, pick a matching crankset.
  • You do not know your bottom bracket or bearing type. Without that, you can easily order a crankset that does not fit.
  • You only want to replace the chainring: buy the ring separately, provided the BCD matches.

How to fit a crankset

  1. Check the bottom bracket

    Look at the width (68 or 73 mm) and bearing type of your bottom bracket. The crankset has to match.

  2. Remove the old crank

    Undo the crank bolt or the clamp with a hex key and pull the arm off with a crank puller.

  3. Grease the spindle and slide the crank on

    Grease the spindle lightly. Push the right arm with the chainrings through the bottom bracket and fit the left arm on the other side.

  4. Tighten to the right torque

    Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s figure, usually 12 to 15 Nm. Check after the first ride that everything is still tight.

  5. Adjust the front derailleur

    With two rings, reset the height and limit screws on the front derailleur. Finally turn the pedals and run through the gears.

Good to know

  • Check that your bottom bracket is square taper.
  • Crank length and chain must suit your drivetrain.
  • Check the crank arm length. You normally ride 170 to 175 mm. A different length changes pedalling geometry, especially with shorter legs or knee problems.
  • Use the right adapters and bearings. A BB30 or PF30 bottom bracket needs a different spindle than a Shimano bearing in a standard shell.
  • Worn teeth stop a new chain from engaging well. Replace chainring, chain and cassette together where you can.
  • Do not overtighten bolts on carbon cranks: follow the stated torque.
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